One of the greatest joys of being a homesteader is harvesting the goods your animals produce for you. Collecting eggs every morning and evening reminds me how much I love this life. I invest my time (and emotions) nurturing my chickens and they return the favor with delicious fresh eggs! But there have been times where I have been shocked and disappointed when checking the nesting boxes. There are times when decreased egg production is normal – but there are times when it is not! Always head the warning signs and give all birds a physical assessment if you suspect a problem.
Decreased Daylight
Let’s start with the most obvious cause of decreased egg production – Decreased daylight. A hen requires approximately 14 hours of daylight for her hormones to be triggered into laying an egg every 24-26 hours. Daylight naturally decreases in the Autumn and Winter months to only 12 hours a day. Some chicken keepers use artificial light in their coop to keep their hens laying all winter. Personally, I do not use artificial lighting as the fire hazard poses too large of a risk.
Molting
Molt is the shedding of old feathers to make way for new feathers. Molting is usually secondary to decreased daylight and is triggered by the regression of a hen’s reproductive tract. Her nutrients and energy are then directed toward feather growth. During molting periods feed your hens a diet with more protein to aid in feather regrowth. We use Nutrena NatureWise Feather Fixer
Stress
Speaking of stress, it is one of the most common reasons for sudden decreased egg production. In my experience chickens DO NOT like changes in their routine. Chickens can become stressed by simply changing their feed, moving to a new location or coop, or introducing new flock members. Some of the less obvious stress triggers can include rodents in the coop, harassment from predators, and inclement weather.
Broodiness
A broody hen is an easily identified reason for decreased egg production. Her maternal instincts have kicked in and her hormones have told her it is time to sit on some eggs. She will only leave the nest once or twice a day to quickly gobble down some grain and drink some water. She will be easily agitated and often growls at the other hens. During this time she will stop laying her own eggs, however, other lazy hens will usually dump their eggs into her nest in hopes the broody hen will do all the hard work to incubate and raise their chicks. If you do not want baby chicks you will need to collect the eggs from under her every day. If you do want baby chicks and you do have fertile eggs (If there is a rooster in your flock then you have fertile eggs) I suggest moving Ms. Broody pants to a location away from the rest of the flock so that her broodiness does not trigger other hens to become broody.
Disease or Parasites
When a hen is unhealthy then her energy and nutrients will be directed towards survival rather than reproduction. Decreased egg productions is the first warning sign of a possible bigger problem. Indications of disease can include eye and nasal discharge, dull appearance, coughing, sneezing, or lameness. Always practice good quarantine methods when introducing new members to your flock to minimize disease risk.
Parasites, mites, and lice can also tax a hen’s immune system. Always perform physical assessments of all birds to search for signs of mites at the base of their feathers and around their vent. Watch for irregular droppings and perform a fecal float test with your vet if you suspect intestinal parasites.
Age
At approximately 6 months old your pullets will start laying their first eggs and will be most productive until approximately 2 or 3 years old. After the first 2 years egg production will decline. Older hens will still lay eggs but at a much slower rate.
Improper Nutrition
Maximum egg production can be obtained by a balanced diet. Poultry nutrition is a very complex topic and is never an exact science. I could ramble on about poultry nutrition (or animal nutrition in general) for hours but I will try to keep this simple. Supply your hens with layer feed balanced at 16% – 18% protein. Keep the table scraps, scratch feeds, meal worms, and other treats limited. Too many treats can cause an imbalance in a hens diet.
Another problem that some struggle with is the lack of a constant source of fresh water. This especially becomes challenging in the winter months when water sources can freeze. If you have electricity in your chicken yard then consider investing in a heated water dish. If you are like me, and do not have electricity close enough to your coop, I suggest switching to rubber water dishes in the winter so they don’t freeze as quickly. I do find myself removing chunks of ice and refilling water dishes multiple times during the day in the coldest months.
Other Problems to Consider (Missing Eggs)
Sometimes the eggs are being laid but are missing! This can be perceived as decreased egg production but is, in fact, due to environmental factors.
- Egg theft by predators. Rats, opossums, or snakes are known for egg theft. Always check your coop for small entrance/exit holes.
- Egg eating. Some hens acquire the taste for fresh eggs and will intentionally break open and consume eggs. It is a difficult habit to break once it starts. Using fake eggs in the nest can sometimes fix or deter this behavior.
- Egg hiding. This happens most often with a free ranging flock. Some hens prefer laying their eggs in a bush or shrub rather than the lovely nesting boxes you have provided for them.
